Week 1
Newborn puppies are totally dependent on others to survive. They are born blind, deaf, and unable to regulate their body temperature. Their temperature is between 94-96 degrees at birth so a warm room / lamp / heating pad is essential for them to stay warm. This is one of those things that happens that stress the puppies out and affects them in the long run. In addition to needing to be kept warm, newborn pups need to be licked, nuzzled and corralled by mom. Surprisingly, newborns are also able to use their ability to smell to find their mama in order to suckle at her breast for colostrum and milk. In the first 10 days, the puppy will double in weight so it’s imperative that there is sufficient milk to support their rapid growth. A good breeder realizes this and provides special attention to mom’s diet, emotional health and overall well-being. A responsible breeder will stay by mom’s side and are hands on to provide fresh water, good nutrition, encouragement and love as well as to keep things organized and clean in the whelping box area. Because puppies are not able to regulate their body temperature, they often and instinctively create a “puppy pile” to keep warm. They are unable to regulate their urine and feces so mom is there to stimulate their little bum’s to relieve them.
Early Neurological Stimulation On days 3-16, the breeder may incorporate ENS. According to the American Kennel Club, “When performed correctly, ENS is believed to impact the neurological system by kicking it into action earlier than would be normally expected, the result being an increased capacity that later will help to make the difference in its performance, according to Breeding Better Dogs. ENS is time sensitive and must be performed from the third to the 16th days of a puppy’s life. Five benefits have been observed in canines that were exposed to ENS, including improved cardio vascular performance (heart rate); stronger heart beats; stronger adrenal glands; more tolerance to stress; and greater resistance to disease.In tests of learning, ENS stimulated pups were more active and exploratory than their non- stimulated littermates, according to Breeding Better Dogs.”
This whole first week is the pups sleep about 90% of the time. The other 10% is eating, searching for warmth and using the potty. Puppies make little squeaky noises to help mama know which puppy needs a little help. Eyes will stay closed and the ears have not been fully developed yet so their world is silent. The most important thing for the breeder to know is how to keep everyone warm, but also not too hot for mama. Keeping her well fed and clean so that she feels happy, healthy and most of all loved and come to the rescue of one gets away or possibly laid on. A proper whelping box should have guardrails in place for instances of accidental death and the breeder needs to be close enough to rescue the puppy from being crushed / smothered and suffocation.
Week 2
Puppies are still completely deaf and blind this entire week as well so all the things from week 1 apply here as well. Eyes are still shut tight and ears are clearly still undeveloped. A good breeder has been in the box with mom and pups at least twice everyday to handle them and provide the ENS therapy that is crucial in having a positive impact on a puppy’s future behavior, health, learning ability and to also help them be less reactive as adults.
All these small details during these early days really do make a difference and a good breeder understands this. This is another reason why choosing a knowledgeable breeder for your pup is so important. This video is when pups are 10 days old.
Week 3
Let the fun begin! This is the time when puppies become sentient. Eyes will start to creep open and ears are in the final stages of development. They can finally start seeing and hearing the sights and sounds around them. In addition, their motor skills are beginning to improve so that they can start scooting around to get where they want to go. Now is the time to definitely introduce the household sounds like a vacuum or voices and the television. I like to play soft classical music to stimulate their brains.
Another thing that shows up are those little sharp teeth. Puppies begin to teethe so small teething rings can be placed in the box for them to start gnawing on.
By the end of the week, puppies are actually standing up and walking about. They are a bit wobbly but oh so cute! They also begin to way their little tails in circles making this period of development oh so special!
Social bonding- Puppies also begin to realize that they have siblings and will begin to show signs of puppy play. They will mouth each other so I like to catch these first signs of play!
Notice in the background that a vacuum is being used so these sounds become normalized and puppies are less fearful. Also see the guardrails in the video. This is to keep puppies from accidentally being crushed or smothered. It gives the puppies a chance to wiggle out just in case they are laid upon. This is the last week it is in the box and will be removed by next week.
The following video shows puppy play and social bonding.
Week 4
Several things are going on this week. The is when pups start to discover how to play with littermates, solve problems, and learn how to cope with the inevitable frustrations of life. A good breeder will provide pups with toys that can be carried, pulled, climbed on and a ropes for a game of tug between litter mates. This helps the pups develop coordination, strength, and agility. They are learning the social etiquette of give and take and how to share. Play fighting starts to become a common game among the littermates so cute little barks and growls begin. Physically, those emerging teeth have now come in full force and are razor sharp so naturally it’s time for mama to step in and teach bite-inhibition.
Weaning begins around the end of week four. Mama is now pulling away and letting pups know that nursing is fast becoming a pastime. As a result, the introduction to solid food and time out of whelping box for pups happens in order to discover new sights and smells. This is also the time that I set aside time for each puppy individually. Connecting and helping them to learn to trust me by offering little treats. I will start using command words and helping puppy “sit” or “shake” and then rewarding with “take a treat.” This helps puppies learn to trust humans and establish a desire to please.
Week 8 – Going Home
Woohoo! Puppies are ready to go home and meet their furever families! This is a big time of transition for the both of you! Puppies often get a bit stressed from all the change and can begin to feel lonely and confused. Sometimes this can take a toll on the nervous system and cause digestive issues, especially diarrhea. Your puppy should be parasite free as I take them to the vet the day before they leave. The issue should resolve within three days. Keep an eye on food and water intake. Please reach out to me immediately if your puppy’s little nose is warm and they are not eating/drinking and seem lethargic. If for whatever reason your puppy’s fecal test is positive for a parasite. I can provide medication at no cost to you to get things straightened out. Your AKC registration comes with 30 days of pet insurance so I strongly encourage you to set up an appointment immediately as I cannot guarantee a puppy if they are not taken in for a well-check.
Feeding
How often should the puppy be fed? This is the way that I do things and what your puppy is used to. In the morning, I add hot water to the puppy food at a 3 to 1 ratio. (3 parts water to 1 part food) I let that sit for about 10-15 minutes then serve. The puppies lap the water and then eat the food at their leisure. At lunch time, I provide dry kibble. For dinner, I do the exact same thing with the 3 to 1 water to puppy food ratio and then leave dry kibble out again. I do not let the puppies have water in their puppy area. I provide fresh water outside when I take them to potty. I do this because of the Golden Retriever’s tendency to play in the water and knocking it over / splashing things can really make a huge mess. I know it sounds like a lot of fun, but I am so over that! 🙂 I recommend feeding them 1/2 cup food to 1 1/2 cups hot water. I feed the pups Science Diet Large Breed Puppy in the Lamb and Rice flavor. Slowly increase their amount as they continue to grow.
Crate-Training
Your puppy has already been in the crate. Crate-training is a valuable tool to use during the potty training period. I personally like to put a big cardboard box (The one I get from Chewy when I order the 30 lb bag of dogfood is perfect) that overhangs at least two inches on all sides on top of the crate and then drape a sheet or blanket while they are in it. Draping away from the crate is important because a puppy can pull the sheet inside and literally eat the fabric. This will help them to feel like they are in a den as well as block their view of all the distractions which helps them rest better. (When out of the crate be sure to fold the sheet up or they may pull the blanket off to play or use it to create a little nest to sleep on.) The crate area (24 x 18 x 19) that they are resting in should just be big enough for them to stand, turn around and lay down in. You can put in a couple of toys but I do NOT recommend putting any kind of fabric in there for them to sleep on. Your pup can sleep just fine on the black mat provided. Your pup should never be in the crate for more than 2 hours at a time at this age or you will be cleaning up a urine-soaked puppy or even worse the dreaded #2 and having to clean the cage which is not a fun endeavor especially in the middle of the night! As your pup continues to grow, you will need to get bigger crates. I very often use the Offer Up App to find things that are being offered by others in my local community rather than making a brand new purchase. You can find used crates that are usually for about 1/2 the cost of brand new.
Registration, Pet Insurance, Microchip and Additional Perks
If I have done things right, I have already registered your puppy by the time you get your puppy home. Your AKC puppy’s registration comes with 30 days of of Pet Insurance. You should receive an email from AKC inviting you to activate the Pet Insurance. Simply activate through the email, print out the voucher and use the portal to find a participating vet in your local area. The puppy folder you received from me should have the receipt to TCAP showing their weight, heart-worm, dewormer and vaccination information and you will want to bring that with you to your first appointment so that they can update your puppy’s file. Pups should receive their second round of vaccinations / heart-worm / dewormer 3-4 weeks after that date and a Rabies Vaccination at 12 weeks of age. Your pup will be done with the vaccines until they reach their first birthday which is when you will. neet to get those boosters and any additonal vaccinations that would be relevant to your needs.
In addition to Pet Insurance, your puppy has already been microchipped and enrolled in the AKC Reunite Microchip Program. Their temporary puppy tag that they come home with will not be able to stand the test of time. As such, I strongly recommend purchasing a couple of stainless steel tags to last over their lifetime them at the website link for Reunite provided above. The tags will have their name, Reunite telephone number as well as their unique ID number which is the same as their microchip that has been implanted between their shoulder blades. I can personally testify to the speed and accuracy of the Reunite program. I have lost a pet and have been reunited in a matter of minutes!
As an additional perk, I have activated the AKC Pupdate as a digital subscription resource of weekly updates for the first year of your puppy’s life. I strongly encourage you to accept the subscription for this relevant and useful information that is delivered directly to your inbox every single week! Super cool right? Try to plan on setting a little bit of time each week to read the pupdate and apply your new knowledge. By the time your puppy celebrates their first birthday, you will be an expert in all things puppy!
Spay / Neuter
If you are planning to spay (female) or neuter (male) your dog, please make research regarding the right time to do that because Golden Retrievers are a large breed dog and research has provided quite a bit of insight on the appropriate timing for that to happen. According to the AKC website, “Dr. Benjamin Hart of the University of California, Davis, has been researching the effects of spay-neuter for a decade, with support from the American Kennel Club Canine Health Foundation. His first paper on the subject, published in 2013, revealed that Golden Retrievers that had been spayed or neutered had a correlation of being three or four times more likely to develop certain cancers, including lymphosarcoma and hemangiosarcoma, and also more likely to develop joint problems such as hip dysplasia and damage to the cranial cruciate ligament. “
It’s time to get outside and play in the sunshine! If you have a private area of grass, now is the time to start really introducing pups to the outside world. Here is where they can play more freely and with vigor. Pups have been learning crucial bite inhibition from mom and now it’s time to put it into practice. This video depicts completely normal behavior of wrestling and growling for fun! Notice Lucy biting at Ethel’s tail and provoking her to engage in rough play. Puppies absolutely love playing like this and it’s very healthy for them to interact this way to help them learn boundaries and limits. Keep in mind that pups need to play in a private area like your backyard.
A STRONG WORD OF CAUTION: Pups at this age should never be taken to a dog park where other animals are. They are not fully vaccinated (until 12 weeks) and traumatic experiences are likely to happen with other animals who enjoy being bullies without the supervision of their owners (who don’t realize that it’s their responsibility to control their animal’s aggression.) Trust me, I learned this one the hard way. 🙁 I strongly recommend play dates as they are a wonderful way for your pet to be socialized and give you control over who they are playing with.
Week 9 (Boredom and Teething)
So you’re little ball of energy seems to be full of mischief! Puppies don’t mean to get into so much trouble but a couple of things lead to it- boredom and teething. You pup is also probably testing boundaries and proudly running away from you with your sock in order to get your attention and play a game of chase because they are feeling lonely. You may be regretting your decision to get a puppy from time to time because of all the hard work or lack of sleep you’re having to deal with in order to raise them properly. Perhaps you’re even thinking of sending them away to get training because you don’t have the time or skill to get them on the right path. Right now your pup needs a lot of stimulation as well as compassion for those teeth as they continue to emerge! If you got a pup from me, they have already been exposed to some training and if you don’t use it, they will lose it. Try really hard to capitalize on what they already know during the crucial socialization and training period of development right now.
Teething “No Nibbles” command
Because of teething, your puppy is probably mouthing everything they can to alleviate discomfort. They should have 28 razor-sharp teeth that can really wreak havoc on all the fun because they can cut and scratch your hands and really hurt your fingers. In response to this uncomfortable situation, I have taught your pup the command “no nibbles.” When they are biting, I gently take their muzzle and close their mouth saying the words, “no nibbles” in a firm tone. I then pull away and let them try to make contact again. I always try to offer a chew or teething type toy. My pups eventually learned to not bite and offer kisses when they make contact with hands. By the time your pup has left, they know this but will likely try to test you. I want to encourage you to be the person in charge and not allow them to hurt you and try to keep doing what they already know. I will try to show you when you pick up your pup but I might forget. Once again, don’t forget to reward them with a toy that is appropriate for chewing immediately to help redirect them and give them some relief.
Around 3-4 months of age, those baby teeeth will start to fall out and their permanent teeth will be erupting. Teething will continue for another 2-3 months. They should have 42 adult teeth when all is said and done. Keep in mind that this can be quite painful so try to be patient and understanding as they really cannot communicate they are hurting. You might notice the teeth on the floor or in their bedding, but most likely baby teeth are swallowed and not a cause for alarm.
Being destructive
A word about puppies being destructive. Keep in mind that a tired puppy is a good puppy. According to the AKC, “A bored dog can become a destructive dog.” Digging up a garden or chewing on the furniture” are examples of a pooch with too much time on their hands. “Puppies are curious and eager to learn about the world around them.” “For a healthy, confident and socialized puppy, it’s important to provide physical exercise and mental stimulation.” “Dogs need to know our expectations,” and as such, taking the time to seize opportunities for learning will help your puppy know what the boundaries are. There are dozens of opportunities to teach a puppy just by simply watching them each and every day. Be ready to reward with high value treats like freeze dried chicken or liver or cut up some cheese bits when they come inside when you call them or go potty on cue. You won’t always have to reward them each and every time later on but this is the time that repetition and reward really count to deeply reinforce what you want them to do!
Regarding exercise, you will want to limit puppy play to not be too strenuous as Golden Retrievers are a large breed dog and joints can be permanently injured through rough play or strenuous exercise. Gentle rough-housing, chasing a ball and tug of war are all great ways to keep them active. “Always use toys when playing with puppies, never your bare hands. This way you will have something big enough to guide into the puppy’s mouth when he wants to bite and tug. Be careful when playing with young pups; don’t tug hard enough to hurt them. They may be pretending to be fierce, but they are still babies. When playing fetch, if your pup doesn’t like to give a toy back after retrieving it, tempt him with a different toy or treat to encourage him to drop it.”
What would happen if puppies are played with the wrong way? Check out this AKC link regarding creating too much stress on the hips and elbows which can cause major issues as they continue to grow.